The hour chamomile opens

Chamomile does not open with the sun. It opens with warmth — usually about an hour after first light, sometimes longer if the morning is damp.

“Chamomile keeps its own clock. Here is how we read it.”

We watch the eastern row first; it is the warmest. When those flowers are fully open, we begin. The work has to be finished before noon or the oils will start to leave the petals.

Done well, a cup of our chamomile tastes faintly of green apples and honey — never the dusty, hay-like flavour you find in supermarket bags.